1/9/2014 - Fes Medina

Balak! Balak! (AKA Look out! Look out!)

Fes is the world's largest medieval city, with more than 9500 narrow streets & dim alleys crammed with people, music, noise & smells (some not so pleasant). It is definitely a city whose souk (marketplace) you would not flock to if you have serious claustrophobic issues.  Endless cries of "balak, balak!" (translation: "look out, look out!") rang out constantly as you struggled to make your way through the crowd in very narrow alleyways without being trampled by the donkeys or even the very rude people who were always seemed to be in a hurry. Aziz told us to stay together because if we ever were separated from the group, we would probably never be found:)

Top row (L to R):Mohammed purchases donuts for us to try; 

the door handles on the Gate of the 7 doors; a single door up close; 

and the Andalusian Gate. Bottom row (L to R): entry gate; 

Gate of the 7 doors; cleaning the doors.

Fes' growth was spurred by 2 waves of immigration occurring during the 9th century - the Muslim refugees escaping Cordoba, creating the Andalusian Quarter in Fes, and the Jewish/Muslim immigrants, creating the traditional Jewish quarter near the King's Palace & Nejjarine Fountain.

Along the way we learned about 3 different types of dates - 2 from Morocco, but 1 from California - and that it is the California dates that are ordered by the families for a wedding - I guess as a way of showing to all the guests that money is no issue and to have serious bragging rates. Who knew???

We stopped at a donut shoppe to try one of the basic morning routines of many Moroccans - donuts fried in olive oil & then strung on a string for easy carrying.  I must admit I like ours a lot better because they're a lot sweeter than these were.  They also offered a donut with a fried egg in the middle - which I found to be very interesting.

Within the medina's many neighborhoods were the craftsmen - leather, textiles, ceramics, granite, etc. The worst smells were coming from the tannery due to the pigeon poop used in the process.  In fact the smell was so bad they offered us a sizable sprig of mint upon our entrance to help deal with the odor.  I am here to tell you I could have used several sprigs & I still was gagging from the smell.  There are actually people who gather this poop - I can't imagine who would want this job nor could they ever pay me enough to do it in the first place. 

Our factory guide joked that instead of the aroma of Co Co Chanel, the plant smelled like Ca Ca Chanel. (ha ha)

Top row (L to R); dyeing fabric in the souk; ceramic bowls; 

detailed ceramic decoration; and tannery dyeing. 

Bottom row (L to R): shaping ceramic tiles; tannery dyeing 

& detailed ceramic work.

Sights & sounds of the souk. Top row (L to R): a shopkeeper
nodding off; ceramic steps on one of the exits; panoramic.
(L to R): making crepes; decorative wedding cookie trays;
a narrow alley; Kodak moment with Moroccan man, his donkey
& his little portable TV.

Before and after...
The camel head in the souk & ground camel for lunch.

The explosion of the satellite dishes...

One thing the medina did not have inside the walls was a cemetery and that was for health reasons. Consequently almost all cemeteries are just outside the entrance gates of the medina.

Dinner this evening was a home hosted meal - delicious soup, mini meatballs with rice in a delicious,  spicy sauce, lots of delicious bread (of course), and fruit for dessert.

New count for vegetarian entree served - llll ll