Unfortunately I never tired of the incredibly delicious breads - thanks to the French influence. I don't think I'll be getting on the scale once I return home any time soon.
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| This photo collage is dedicated to my siblings - bread lovers all! |
Saturday, January 18, 2014
1/18/2014 - Tagine Fatigue
I am tagined out - tired of lamb tagine, beef tagine, camel tagine, seafood tagine.
Unfortunately I never tired of the incredibly delicious breads - thanks to the French influence. I don't think I'll be getting on the scale once I return home any time soon.
Unfortunately I never tired of the incredibly delicious breads - thanks to the French influence. I don't think I'll be getting on the scale once I return home any time soon.
Friday, January 17, 2014
1/17/2014 - Last days in Marrakech...
This morning we climbed aboard our traditional horse-drawn caleche. We started in Gueliz, the modern part of the city designed and built by the French in the early 20th century, followed by the Koutoubia minaret, the Saadian Tombs, the Moorish spice market, a Berber pharmacy and the opulent Bahia Palace.
After shopping for delicious fresh dates and apricots in the legendary Djemma El-Fna square, we followed Aziz to his favorite Italian restaurant, Portofino, where I shared a caprese salad and quatro formaggio pizza with Rosie - about $12.50 (which also included a glass of wine, generously poured).
We were supposed to return to the square this evening to view the snake charmers, tooth pullers and other performers, but the weather turned windy and rainy, so we stayed in and relaxed instead.
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| Top row (L to R); the Bahia Palace courtyard and an old man in jalaba on bicycle. Bottom row (L to R): we bought our apricots & dates at this stall; our pharmacist uses a huge wooden club to demonstrate the effects of the male Viagra herbs; and our horse-drawn caleche. |
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| The incredible craftsmanship of the Bahia Palace. |
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| More of the awesome craftsmanship on display in the Bahia Palace. |
After shopping for delicious fresh dates and apricots in the legendary Djemma El-Fna square, we followed Aziz to his favorite Italian restaurant, Portofino, where I shared a caprese salad and quatro formaggio pizza with Rosie - about $12.50 (which also included a glass of wine, generously poured).
We were supposed to return to the square this evening to view the snake charmers, tooth pullers and other performers, but the weather turned windy and rainy, so we stayed in and relaxed instead.
Thursday, January 16, 2014
1/16/2014 - On the Way to Marrakech (all aboard the train)
Who knew Ouazarzate was the film capital of Morocco (AKA Mollywood)? The movie list includes:
Lawrence of Arabia
The Man Who Would be King
Cleopatra
Ali Baba & the 40 Thieves
Sodom & Gomorrah
Scheherazade
Young Indiana Jones
Gladiator
Babel
The Bible
Prince of Persia
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| Ouazarzate - film capital of Morocco (AKA Mollywood). Three different sets. |
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| Panoramic view of the High Atlas Mountain range.
Young, excited voices coming from a small room on the way to the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah grab our attention and we spend some time singing and talking with the beautiful children attending kindergarten.
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| Adorable kindergarten class. |
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| More incredible views of the High Atlas Mountains.
On our way to our last hotel destination Aziz informed us that because the king's entourage is encamped in our destined hotel, we would be forced to upgrade to the 5-star Atlas Asni Hotel. Sigh...if we must:) (ha ha). Great place to stay, but not as clean as one would hope.
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1/15/2014 - Tineghir to Ouarzazate
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| Scenes from the Dades Valley.
As if one breakfast wasn't enough, we visit a Berber family and share Berber pizza and mint tea.
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| Our Berber host family walks us through the procedure of making their pizza. We enjoy their hospitality and their scrumptious children.
Our last stop before checking into our hotel is a visit with a Berber Imam and his delightful brother, who is also currently studying to become an Imam.
We luck out with a last-minute hotel change to the Ibis Moussafair, a newer and cleaner hotel than the Hotel Riad Salam. In fact, we are the very first OAT group to stay here. |
1/14/2014 - A Day in the Life in Tineghir
Today our day began with a walking tour of a typical community farm, followed by a visit to a madrasa (Koranic school). The 300-year old madrasa is no longer used, but we learned all about how strict the education was when it came to memorizing the verses of the Koran. Young boys would be subject to lashings on the bottom of their feet if they did not remember their verses.
There were minor ablutions to be followed after using the bathroom - involving using water to cleanse various body parts 3 times, starting with the hands, feet, mouth, ears, etc.
There were also major ablutions to be followed after sex - involving a cleansing similar to a complete shower.
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| (Top left community farmland. (Bottom left this conical shape was used as a portable private toilet for workers to use while they were working in the fields. Center right & right: stairway to the madrasa terrace & mosque.
We were split into 3 groups to purchase vegetables, fruit & chicken for this evening's dinner. I opted to follow Aziz to get the chicken - watching the shopkeeper take his last 4 chickens from free range to the range - pretty interesting.
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| Scenes from the marketplace. Our chickens were slaughtered, put in buckets upside down so they would bleed out, then boiled quickly and defeathered in preparation for our dinner.
From the marketplace to the blue men (Berbers) carpet store, where we learn that the blue men are the Tuareg, a nomadic group of people in the Sahara whose traditional territories included Mali and parts of Niger, Morocco, Algeria, etc. They got their nickname from the blue robes they wear. Originally their clothing was deeply dyed with natural indigo. This was absorbed by the skin, which also took on a blue tinge. Th
ese Berbers would also apply indigo dye to the faces and bodies as protection from the desert sun.
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| Top (L to R): A Tuareg woman scrapes dirt & other impurities from camel hair in preparation for weaving; Berber dinner entertainment. Bottom: scenes from the Berber carpet shop. |
Wednesday, January 15, 2014
1/13/2014 - From the Sahara to Tineghir
Moroccans refer to Muslim women in full hajib and burka as being UWOs - unidentified walking objects:)
After packing up our 4 x 4 vehicles, we head out for our journey to Tineghir with our first stop being a Berber cemetery. We learn that the Berbers wrap their dead in a white shroud and lay them on their right side (because the left side is considered evil) with their head facing Mecca. The shrouded body is then covered with slabs of stone to prevent animals from disturbing it, then covered completely with smaller rocks.
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| Camels in Rissani - especially one who enjoys Coca Cola. (Below) Berber cemetery in the Sahara Desert. |
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| The stunning scenery and panoramic Todra Gorge in the oasis town of Tineghir. |
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| Hotel Yasmina in Erb Chebbi began with a dream from a man who originally lived in the cave above the current hotel (see large photo above). Eventually he saved enough money to build the hotel which is now run by his descendants. He is in his early 90s.
Eight of us (4 women and 4 men) decided to visit the hammam (Turkish steam baths). In the women's hammam, we shed all our clothing except underpants. Then we were covered in henna and black soap, which made our skin feel very silky. Once the soap was applied, our young Moroccan ladies scrubbed us with a loofa about as rough as coarse sandpaper (I think my entire suntan was removed when I saw all the dead skin on my body). Then we were rinsed with a couple of buckets of very warm water. Once that was completed, our hair was shampooed and brushed with a stiff-bristled brush that felt absolutely wonderful (I kept picturing a horse with its mane being brushed to a glossy sheen). During the final step in the process we were soaped from top to bottom, had a quick massage and were rinsed again. It was a great relaxing experience.
We were informed of a last-minute hotel change to the Kasbah Lamrati, and upon our departure, we are told that we were the very last OAT group to stay here because of the staff's refusal to upgrade the very mediocre breakfasts and dinners they offered during our stay. |
1/12/2014 - Life in the Sahara Desert
Moroccan saying: If you put one foot on tomorrow and put one foot on yesterday, you'll piss on today.
Up with the sun at 6:30 AM, followed by some tea, coffee & small bites for breakfast, provided by our incredible steward, Hussein. Out to the dunes for sunrise and meditation.
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| (L to R): Aziz, master storyteller & rabbit (Lily) murderer; Hussein, our wonderful camp steward; and the drivers loading us up for departure. |
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| Nomadic life in the Sahara. Bottom row (L to R): baking bread; camel grazing; spinning came wool for carpets.
There are about 200 nomadic villages in the Sahara. Since nomads do not attend school they are illiterate and only look forward to being tent wives if female and camel herders if male. There is a high mortality rate, particularly from silicosis (caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in the form of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs).
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| Sunrise in the Sahara. The Sahara is 80% rocks, 10% sand and 10% mountains.
We visit a farm later and hunt for fossils. We conclude the evening with some hilarious tales around the campfire, with Aziz sharing his favorite question ever asked by one of his travelers: "Why did the Romans build so many ruins?"
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Tuesday, January 14, 2014
1/11/2014 Off-road Sahara Adventure
The story of how the dunes came about...
Every time someone tells a lie, one grain of sand is added to the desert. Whenever a truth is told, a grain of sand will be removed.
After breakfast we crossed the street to learn about fossils from one of the many shops in the area. They had excavated quite a few incredible sheets of rocks that were filled with fossils. Whenever water was poured over the stone, it brought out out the vibrant colors & designs hidden within. I saw some extraordinary fountains that would have been stunning on my pool deck, but of course I had champagne tastes on a beer diet, so I could only dream about adding them to my backyard paradise.
From the fossil store we boarded our 4 x 4 vehicles - heading out to find our camels in the Sahara Desert for our 40-minute ride toward the dunes. I named my camel Gussie, since she was a female, instead of Gus II (prospective male successor to Gus, my Egyptian camel who widened my butt crack back in 2009). Needless to say, in much more comfortable conditions - temperatures in the 70s, compared to temperatures in triple digits - this was a much more enjoyable ride. Doug, one of my fellow travelers, even went so far as to hint that maybe I liked camels after all (let's not get too carried away now).
Our little tented campsite, Adar Adventures, was nestled in the sand dunes near Merzouga. Incredibly each tent came with its own ensuite toilet, and the campsite included 2 sinks, 3 tented showers and a tented dining area. Solar power was used for electricity, and thankfully hot water bottles were distributed for keeping us warm & toasty as the nighttime temperatures dipped into the 30s. (It also helped that Aziz accompanied us to a liquor store in Rabat so we could buy wine and beer to keep us warm as well). (ha ha) (I do believe this was the first time in my life that I had a Muslim order wine - in Arabic - for me in a liquor store:)
Every time someone tells a lie, one grain of sand is added to the desert. Whenever a truth is told, a grain of sand will be removed.
After breakfast we crossed the street to learn about fossils from one of the many shops in the area. They had excavated quite a few incredible sheets of rocks that were filled with fossils. Whenever water was poured over the stone, it brought out out the vibrant colors & designs hidden within. I saw some extraordinary fountains that would have been stunning on my pool deck, but of course I had champagne tastes on a beer diet, so I could only dream about adding them to my backyard paradise.
From the fossil store we boarded our 4 x 4 vehicles - heading out to find our camels in the Sahara Desert for our 40-minute ride toward the dunes. I named my camel Gussie, since she was a female, instead of Gus II (prospective male successor to Gus, my Egyptian camel who widened my butt crack back in 2009). Needless to say, in much more comfortable conditions - temperatures in the 70s, compared to temperatures in triple digits - this was a much more enjoyable ride. Doug, one of my fellow travelers, even went so far as to hint that maybe I liked camels after all (let's not get too carried away now).
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| Our camels and capable guides are awaiting our arrival. |
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| Off we go with the dunes in the background. |
Our little tented campsite, Adar Adventures, was nestled in the sand dunes near Merzouga. Incredibly each tent came with its own ensuite toilet, and the campsite included 2 sinks, 3 tented showers and a tented dining area. Solar power was used for electricity, and thankfully hot water bottles were distributed for keeping us warm & toasty as the nighttime temperatures dipped into the 30s. (It also helped that Aziz accompanied us to a liquor store in Rabat so we could buy wine and beer to keep us warm as well). (ha ha) (I do believe this was the first time in my life that I had a Muslim order wine - in Arabic - for me in a liquor store:)
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| Top row (L to R): our dining hall; some of the individual tents. Bottom row (L to R) ensuite bathroom, complete with fancy throne, plenty of TP; spray for overpowering smells; black bucket for used TP; and blue bucket fot scooping water into toilet bowl after going to help ground absorb the moisture & smells; our outdoor sink and solar-heated showers. |
1/10/2014 - Fes to Erfoud
This was our longest bus ride for the entire Moroccan adventure - about 9 hours from Res to Erfoud. We drove across the Middle Atlas mountain range, bordered by pine groves & giant cedars. As a testament to the variety of landscapes in Morocco, we did a quick pit stop in Ifrane, built by the French in 1929, which actually slightly resembled a Swiss town with its architecture and mountain resort. The centerpiece sculpture in the park is the village stone lion, carved by an Italian soldier during World War II, as a testament to the last lion that lived in Morocco.
Our next stop was a semi-nomad village in the middle of nowhere. There were 2 absolutely adorable children who looked as if they could be twins, along with 3 women who were tending the tent while the men were out herding the goats.
Lunch was at the Kasbah Asmaa in Midelt, a major fruit-growing area for apples, walnuts, apricots & plums. We had an incredible meal of trout, fresh vegetables & fruit - and of course, the everpresent, delicious homemade bread (which is responsible for most of my weight gain this trip).
We finally arrive at our hotel, Belere Erfoud, just after darkness fell - making it very difficult to find our rooms among the maze of passageways between landscaped plantings of shrubs & trees. All along this trip we have encountered cat after cat after cat. (Those of you who know me well, know I cannot stand cats). I do believe the cat at this hotel had a death wish, because for some reason it continued to follow me around, constantly mewling in a high-pitched whine. I couldn't believe it when I went to put my luggage out the next morning at 7 AM & there it was again, mewling like there was no tomorrow. (Like I said, it definitely was close to losing one of its 9 lives).
Our next stop was a semi-nomad village in the middle of nowhere. There were 2 absolutely adorable children who looked as if they could be twins, along with 3 women who were tending the tent while the men were out herding the goats.
Lunch was at the Kasbah Asmaa in Midelt, a major fruit-growing area for apples, walnuts, apricots & plums. We had an incredible meal of trout, fresh vegetables & fruit - and of course, the everpresent, delicious homemade bread (which is responsible for most of my weight gain this trip).
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| Photos & panoramic of the oasis - land of the date palms. |
1/9/2014 - Fes Medina
Fes is the world's largest medieval city, with more than 9500 narrow streets & dim alleys crammed with people, music, noise & smells (some not so pleasant). It is definitely a city whose souk (marketplace) you would not flock to if you have serious claustrophobic issues. Endless cries of "balak, balak!" (translation: "look out, look out!") rang out constantly as you struggled to make your way through the crowd in very narrow alleyways without being trampled by the donkeys or even the very rude people who were always seemed to be in a hurry. Aziz told us to stay together because if we ever were separated from the group, we would probably never be found:)
Top row (L to R):Mohammed purchases donuts for us to try;
the door handles on the Gate of the 7 doors; a single door up close;
and the Andalusian Gate. Bottom row (L to R): entry gate;
Gate of the 7 doors; cleaning the doors.
Along the way we learned about 3 different types of dates - 2 from Morocco, but 1 from California - and that it is the California dates that are ordered by the families for a wedding - I guess as a way of showing to all the guests that money is no issue and to have serious bragging rates. Who knew???
We stopped at a donut shoppe to try one of the basic morning routines of many Moroccans - donuts fried in olive oil & then strung on a string for easy carrying. I must admit I like ours a lot better because they're a lot sweeter than these were. They also offered a donut with a fried egg in the middle - which I found to be very interesting.
Within the medina's many neighborhoods were the craftsmen - leather, textiles, ceramics, granite, etc. The worst smells were coming from the tannery due to the pigeon poop used in the process. In fact the smell was so bad they offered us a sizable sprig of mint upon our entrance to help deal with the odor. I am here to tell you I could have used several sprigs & I still was gagging from the smell. There are actually people who gather this poop - I can't imagine who would want this job nor could they ever pay me enough to do it in the first place.
Our factory guide joked that instead of the aroma of Co Co Chanel, the plant smelled like Ca Ca Chanel. (ha ha)
Top row (L to R); dyeing fabric in the souk; ceramic bowls;
detailed ceramic decoration; and tannery dyeing.
Bottom row (L to R): shaping ceramic tiles; tannery dyeing
& detailed ceramic work.
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| Sights & sounds of the souk. Top row (L to R): a shopkeeper nodding off; ceramic steps on one of the exits; panoramic. (L to R): making crepes; decorative wedding cookie trays; a narrow alley; Kodak moment with Moroccan man, his donkey & his little portable TV. |
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| Before and after... The camel head in the souk & ground camel for lunch. |
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| The explosion of the satellite dishes... |
One thing the medina did not have inside the walls was a cemetery and that was for health reasons. Consequently almost all cemeteries are just outside the entrance gates of the medina.
Dinner this evening was a home hosted meal - delicious soup, mini meatballs with rice in a delicious, spicy sauce, lots of delicious bread (of course), and fruit for dessert.
New count for vegetarian entree served -
Friday, January 10, 2014
1/8/2014 - Rabat to Meknes to Fes
Moroccan urban legend often shared in the mosque to discourage the use of alcohol ...
There once was a single young man who aspired to be an Imam, but the Muslim religion strictly dictated that a man could not be an Imam unless he was married. It just so happened that there was also a widow in the same town as this young man, who was madly in love with him.
So, she boldly knocked on his door very late one night to ask him for his help. As he was single and she was a woman alone, he was unsure of what to do, so he did the only thing most Moroccan people would do - he invited her in for a cup of tea.
When he finished the preparation of the tea, he returned to where the woman was waiting - only to find that she was completely naked, with a baby and a full bottle of wine on the table.
The widow said to the young man that she was in love with him and knew that he needed to be married to become an Imam, so she said to him, "If you choose not to marry me, I will kill the child. If you choose to drink the entire bottle of wine instead of marrying me, I will scream and cry to your neighbors that you have raped me."
So the young man, knowing that it was against his religion to kill, but also knowing that rules regarding alcohol were a little more vague, decided to drink the entire bottle of wine, whereupon once he finished, in a drunken state, slayed both the child and the widow.
Our very long drive today takes us through the agrarian portion of Morocco, where 50% of the fruit trees are olive trees and where produce & flowers grow year-round in the very agreeable climate. Everywhere you look, there are acres & acres of fields in varying shades of green. We are informed that most of the olive presses are Italian & that the oil carries an Italian label, and that the French were mainly responsible for introducing the vineyards.
On the way to Meknes we stop to check out the cork oak trees involved in the 9-year cycle of cork production. The process involves stripping the bark from the lower portion of the tree and then applying olive oil to the stripped bark.
We learn that:
1. 65% of Moroccans are Berbers;
2. that the Shiites thought Mohammed's cousin should succeed him to the throne according to the hierarchy, whereas the Sunnis thought Mohammed's successor should be democratically elected by the Parliament;
3. that we were crisscrossing the Salt Route, as precious to the Moroccans as the Silk Route is to the Orient. Salt was traded for gold, pretty much ounce for ounce - hence the expression that someone is worth their salt, and that the word "salary" originates from salt.
We also learn about argan oil (AKA Moroccan ironwood) & its medicinal uses as we continue along the Atlas Mountains where it is endemic. The fruit is gathered by hand, its nut is cracked open & 1-3 kernels containing 50% of the oil are removed, roasted & ground to extract the oil. This process takes about 15-20 hours to crack 4.5 pounds of nuts required to produce
1 Liter of oil. Argan oil is rich in vitamins A & E, antioxidants, and unsaturated fatty acids, including omega 6. To protect this valuable source, UNESCO declared part of the argan forest, approximately 130 square miles,an international biosphere reserve.
As part of our cultural experience we went to an outdoor market to buy tangerines & bananas. Apparently the sellers expect customers to taste the fruit before they buy it - an idea that really appealed to me. If you don't like the taste you just move along until you find a vendor whose produce is acceptable. (I imagine you could continue to do this until you've consumed enough fruit to satisfy your needs without paying a dime). There are no trash cans for the peels so people are expected to throw their peels on the ground. When the market closes they have goats roam the grounds, eating everything that lies on the ground - cheap, easy & well organized!
There once was a single young man who aspired to be an Imam, but the Muslim religion strictly dictated that a man could not be an Imam unless he was married. It just so happened that there was also a widow in the same town as this young man, who was madly in love with him.
So, she boldly knocked on his door very late one night to ask him for his help. As he was single and she was a woman alone, he was unsure of what to do, so he did the only thing most Moroccan people would do - he invited her in for a cup of tea.
When he finished the preparation of the tea, he returned to where the woman was waiting - only to find that she was completely naked, with a baby and a full bottle of wine on the table.
The widow said to the young man that she was in love with him and knew that he needed to be married to become an Imam, so she said to him, "If you choose not to marry me, I will kill the child. If you choose to drink the entire bottle of wine instead of marrying me, I will scream and cry to your neighbors that you have raped me."
So the young man, knowing that it was against his religion to kill, but also knowing that rules regarding alcohol were a little more vague, decided to drink the entire bottle of wine, whereupon once he finished, in a drunken state, slayed both the child and the widow.
Our very long drive today takes us through the agrarian portion of Morocco, where 50% of the fruit trees are olive trees and where produce & flowers grow year-round in the very agreeable climate. Everywhere you look, there are acres & acres of fields in varying shades of green. We are informed that most of the olive presses are Italian & that the oil carries an Italian label, and that the French were mainly responsible for introducing the vineyards.
On the way to Meknes we stop to check out the cork oak trees involved in the 9-year cycle of cork production. The process involves stripping the bark from the lower portion of the tree and then applying olive oil to the stripped bark.
Cork oak tree after stripping.
We learn that:
1. 65% of Moroccans are Berbers;
2. that the Shiites thought Mohammed's cousin should succeed him to the throne according to the hierarchy, whereas the Sunnis thought Mohammed's successor should be democratically elected by the Parliament;
3. that we were crisscrossing the Salt Route, as precious to the Moroccans as the Silk Route is to the Orient. Salt was traded for gold, pretty much ounce for ounce - hence the expression that someone is worth their salt, and that the word "salary" originates from salt.
We also learn about argan oil (AKA Moroccan ironwood) & its medicinal uses as we continue along the Atlas Mountains where it is endemic. The fruit is gathered by hand, its nut is cracked open & 1-3 kernels containing 50% of the oil are removed, roasted & ground to extract the oil. This process takes about 15-20 hours to crack 4.5 pounds of nuts required to produce
1 Liter of oil. Argan oil is rich in vitamins A & E, antioxidants, and unsaturated fatty acids, including omega 6. To protect this valuable source, UNESCO declared part of the argan forest, approximately 130 square miles,an international biosphere reserve.
As part of our cultural experience we went to an outdoor market to buy tangerines & bananas. Apparently the sellers expect customers to taste the fruit before they buy it - an idea that really appealed to me. If you don't like the taste you just move along until you find a vendor whose produce is acceptable. (I imagine you could continue to do this until you've consumed enough fruit to satisfy your needs without paying a dime). There are no trash cans for the peels so people are expected to throw their peels on the ground. When the market closes they have goats roam the grounds, eating everything that lies on the ground - cheap, easy & well organized!
Aziz shows us how it is done.
We spend about 24 cents for 2.2 lbs of incredibly delicious tangerines and $1.00 for 2.2 lbs of bananas.
Back on the bus we continue on our way, noticing little roadside stands with eggs, carob nuts, fruits, water, chickens & roosters along the road.
Workers harvesting & preparing
black olives for the markets.
The gated entrance to Meknes.
Tagines, earthenware cooking vessels for traditional Moroccan food,
are everywhere in abundance, as are olives,
fresh meat (buzzing flies at no extra charge) and people.
We arrive in the walled city of Meknes, passing through the gates of the onetime home of the Moroccan sultanate & another UNESCO World Heritage site. While in the city of Meknes, we explored the marketplace - taking in the myriad sights, sounds & smells. We especially enjoyed the colorful variety of olives - but not so much the quantity of bees circling & enjoying the candies, cookies & other sweets. (We later had some of these sweets for our dessert at lunch) ha ha!
After the market, we walked over to a shop of silver damascene work, where thin, silver threads are slowly tapped into designs on pieces of steel, then attached to pottery. It is a craft unique to Morocco and the pieces are exquisite. I purchased a medium-size vase that is absolutely beautiful.
After the market, we walked over to a shop of silver damascene work, where thin, silver threads are slowly tapped into designs on pieces of steel, then attached to pottery. It is a craft unique to Morocco and the pieces are exquisite. I purchased a medium-size vase that is absolutely beautiful.
One of the craftsmen taps the silver threads
into the pottery. (I love this man's beautiful smile).
The Roman ruins of Volubilis (Latin for "morning glory"), another UNESCO World Heritage Site, are the most impressive in Morocco. Archaeological evidence may even point to its existence during the Neolithic period during 3rd century B.C., but it was under the Berber Mauritanian King Juba that Volubilis began to flourish (45-285 A.D.). Under the Romans, the city grew to about 20,000 people who mainly exported vast quantities of olives & wheat, and even some wild animals, particularly the Barbary lions that fought in the Colosseum.
Because Volubilis was on the edge of the Roman kingdom, it was abandoned by Emperor Diocletian in the late 3rd century when he withdrew his troops from the coastal areas, giving neighboring tribes the opportunity to take over the settlement.
French excavations & reconstruction of the 99-acre site began in 1915, with most activity occurring in 1962, revealing some Forum columns, houses, triumphal arch, an olive press, the main road & entry gate, & many beautiful mosaics.
Volubilis ruins: top (L-R) mosaic, forum, olive press, triumphant arch; bottom (LR) forum, triumphant arch; aqueduct.
***We have 2 vegetarians in our group of 15 and it is pretty clear that the Moroccans don't exactly know what to make of them at mealtimes. While the rest of us are enjoying tagines of chicken, pork, lamb & beef, they are usually staring at the same collection of vegetables - in portions that could feed an army of 4-6 people. We have gotten in the habit of eagerly awaiting the removal of the tagine lid to see if there will be something different underneath, but it has become such a joke that I am starting to keep a count of this ubiquitous meal for my readers.
Here is the count so far: llll (2 lunches + 3 dinners)
Wednesday, January 8, 2014
1/7/2014 - Rabat, Capital of Morocco & Home to the King
Unrelated piece of useless information:
Satellite dishes are becoming quite prolific in Morocco. They cost about $100, supposedly get 3000 different channels and have absolutely NO monthly service charges! (where do I sign up)????
Aziz Kebiri: accomplished troubadour, guide extraordinaire and aspiring rap artist.
Shots of Chellah and
Kasbah des Oudaias (top row center).
The Royal Palace (Kasbah des Oudaias), built by the Almohads in the 12 century on the site of the original 10th century ribat fortress, is the residence of the king,currently Mohammed VI (1999-present)+ guest house for family & visiting heads of state. It sits on 160 acres and includes a mosque where you see many men wearing the traditional garb of fez, white jalaba &yellow slippers.
Aziz gave a short summary on the predominantly Hanafit Sunni sect of the Moroccan population (moderates who believe that religion is personal and between a person & their god), then discussed how the role of women in society was evolving slowly but surely - certainly abetted by the fact that the current king, Mohammed VI married a commoner with PhD in computer science. Some of these changes involved inheritance (previously the women received only 1/3 while the men receive 2/3); divorce & birth control were not available to women; men could have multiple wives. Our next stop was Chellah (A.D. 40), a southernmost Roman settlement ruins and Islamic burial place, enclosed by 14th century gates & walls. It was a bustling trading post & one of the last to sever ties with the Roman Empire. The scattered ruins include a main road, the Decumanus Maximus, which passes through a triumphal arch and past the Jupiter Temple, coming to an end at the forum. It was finally abandoned in 1154. The very tranquil and pleasant place is overgrown with a myriad of plants & aged fruit trees which are habituated by a colony of white storks (snowbirds) that migrate from Switzerland & Germany each year. They mate for life and are considered a sign of good fortune.
Our last stop before lunch was the Hassan
Tower & the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, which stand opposite one another. The tower is a minaret 12th century. It was intended to be the tallest minaret in the world but it was abandoned after the sultan died in 1199. Despite this is still looms over the remains of its ruined mosque, which was flattened by an earthquake in 1755.
The shrine of Mausoleum of Mohammed V, King Hassan II and Prince Moulay Abdellah was designed by a Vietnamese architect & inaugurated in 1961.
Hassan Tower
Mausoleum of Mohammed V
The different uniforms of the guards
of the Mausoleum of Mohammed V
reflect the national colors of red & green.
Our lunch today consisted of fish shish kabob, lentils, rice, vegetables and nougat ice cream for dessert. (Not sure that nougat would be something I would want to eat again). The main attraction during our lunch was the roiling Atlantic Ocean just outside our windows- providing free entertainment with incredibly high waves crashing the shore and the pier all the way up to parking lot. leaving lots of sand & debris behind. (Apparently it was part of the The "Black Swell" hitting the UK, Ireland and Portugal).
After lunch we had a short Morocco vocabulary lesson with the following important definitions:
- Medina: ancient walled cities constructed through the years by various dynasties.
- Kasbah: palace.
- Riad: an interior courtyard w/fountain in the center of the quadrants +garden, usually in 4 quadrants + possibly some fruit trees. Focus is the spiritual relationship of sight & sound
- Darr: an interior courtyard. no garden
Then a lesson on the 5 requirements of a medina:
- a mosque
- a fountain- a shared bakery for bread
- a hamman (steam bath for men & women - separate times. 1X/wk).
- a madrasa (Koranic school)
A visit to the Oudaya Medina, 16th century homes in Rabat.
The Oudaya Medina during the day (left) and night (below).
Trip to the Marjane supermarket (like a super Walmart), with toys, furniture, books,food & sampling stations for Nescafe & roasted meats, electronics and just about anything imaginable.
Closed out a phenomenal day with a phenomenal dinner @ Restaurant Marocain:
round 1 - assorted vegetable tapas dishes + bread + olives
round 2 - pastilla (upper left): flaky phyllo pastry pie with chicken filling, topped with powdered sugar + cinnamon.
round 3 - tagine (upper center): meat (pork) with fruits/vegetables (dates +apricots) slowly cooked in 2-piece earthenware cooking vessel with a cone-shaped lid.
round 4 - pastilla au lait (upper right): layers of crispy, flaky phyllo pastry with sweetened milk + amlou (almond paste + honey + argan oil), and topped with crushed nuts. Supplemented with mint tea (lower center) of course.
round 5 - serious food fatigue followed by crashing in bed and starting again the next day.
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